Humidor questions

[Skipper the cigar aFISHinodo]

i think you would have to swap out those shelves for something slotted and cedar. That and if you can seal that door you'll have a fine humidor there. consider some sort of electronic non-passive humidification system. There's quite a few available these days.

[discdog]

Beautiful cabinet! Take your time and it would be a great humidor. Not sure about your cost estimate though. Maybe $250.00.

Take everything out and seal around the glass with some good clear silicone (latex). That will help with the moisture loss and keep down on any unpleasant odors.

Foam or rubber weatherstipping around the door and the only thing you have to worry about after that is the back and how to seal the penetration from the cord for the humidifier.

As far as the back, check on the availabilty of marine grade plywood. Usually costs a little more but it will last indefinatly in your enviroment. I used it in mine and have had no issues for several years now. I would reccomend using nothing less than 1/2" plywood. Make sure to silicone the back in too.

You may need to bolster the top and bottom with an extra magnetic latch, but, you won't know until you start adding humidity to the cabinet to see how the door will react.

All in all, great choice and good luck.

[TheValKitty]

Thank you discdog, this is really helpful info!

I will look into the marine plywood, never heard of it.

The door closes really well, and it is challenging to open at times as there is no knob, so I think the door will seal well.

[jam]

I have a small cabinet that i want to line with Spanish Cedar and some questions
1-NAils or Liquid nail for 1/4 in Spanish Cedar
2- Caulking for Joints what do you recommend

[discdog]

I have a small cabinet that i want to line with Spanish Cedar and some questions
1-NAils or Liquid nail for 1/4 in Spanish Cedar
2- Caulking for Joints what do you recommend

Jam, I wouldn't use nails inside the box, if for no other reason, rust. Although you could use stainless steel but with the wood expanding and contracting, the nails are probably not the best idea.

Without seeing or knowing more about the box you are trying to line I would be just guessing to make suggestions on how I would attempt the project.

As for liquid nail or any other glue, check out the VOC info on the package. The higher the number, the more "odor" you will have IMHO. Obviously, that is not the reason for VOC info, but it has always been a good indicator for me.

As for caulking, I use a latex (paintable) silicone. You could use any nonhardening type that is made for damp or moisture laden applications. Such as most tub & tile or bath & kitchen types.

If your able to miter your plywood, you could edgeband the top of the plywood and line the inside of the box without using any fasteners. Just depends on the size of the project.

[jam]

its very hard to edge the plywood because its spanish cedar veneer cost 100.00 for 4 x 8 sheet

Thanks for the great info

[discdog]

its very hard to edge the plywood because its spanish cedar veneer cost 100.00 for 4 x 8 sheet

Thanks for the great info

There is another option for the edgeband. I use edgetape all the time. It comes in various widths and is pre-glued with hot melt. You simply steal your wife's iron for an hour or so.
I have used this method for years on commercial doors. As long as it is applied properly the first time, I've never had any issues with it.

To match SC, I use Honduran mahogany. They both have the same characteristics and age to the same dark, rich color.

I think I still have some, if you want to try it. Let me know.